3d Printer Pcb Heat Bed Mk3 Heatbed 12v

3d Printer Pcb Heat Bed Mk3 Heatbed 12v



3d Printer Pcb Heat Bed Mk3 Heatbed 12v

PCB Heatbed

Release status: working

Warning

Alert!!!
Be careful where you buy PCB heatbeds from!! In that location is 1 very important requirement – the heatbed must be etched directly from 35um copper clad! Inquire YOUR SELLER!!! If the board is plated, every bit it’s normally done, the manufacturer cannot guarantee the final thickness of copper or the evenness of the copper around the board. If it is uneven, the estrus won’t be evenly distributed effectually the board or the board won’t have a high enough heat output overall.

Your biggest alarm sign is plated holes! Plating of holes requires copper plating.

Almost

The original PCB Heatbed MK1 was developed past

Josef Průša
.

  • 200 mm x 200 mm active heated area.
  • 209 mm center-to-centre mounting holes (exterior the agile area).
  • 214 mm x 214 mm total PCB size.

“I was working on this thought for about half-dozen months, inspired past
neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=864“.

Where to get it

The .brd file is bachelor here: [[ii]]

Mechanical drawings for designing mounting plates/etc (if desired) are here: [[3]]

(Please note that I don’t become any provision from these :-)) Manufactured PCBs can exist found here:

PCBONLINE – Advanced PCB manufacturer, like HDI, high-frequency, ceramic, carbon nanotube, etc, from prototype to mass production, no minimum club limit.

pcbshopper
– an automated PCB fabrication price comparing tool of numerous services.

Itead

SeeedStudio

JLC PCB

OSH Park

PCBGOGO

PCBAStore

Makerfabs

PCBONLINE

Printing

Previously the accustomed method was to cover the PCB heatbed with kapton tape, degrease it and impress. An alternative method that has become popular (equally of January 2015) is to apply a sheet of 3mm borosilicate glass, held using bulldog clips (run across the Give-and-take tab). Adherence of the printed object to the glass is helped by spraying the clean glass with pilus lacquer (the “extra strength” type).

ABS temperature range: 100-110°C

PLA temperature range: 50-seventy°C

These ranges of temperatures are indicative but, you lot’ll have to test and see what works best for your printer/filament/hotend setup.

MAKE Certain YOUR
Ability Supply
HAS 10 More than AMPS SPARE!!!

Mounting

Known working solution, I (prusajr) apply is Drinking glass sheet (3mm) with glued on cork standoffs and on superlative of that is glued the heatbed.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/prusajr/5410919911/
http://world wide web.flickr.com/photos/prusajr/5410919707/

When mounted but using the iv corners, the inherent warp of the pcb can exist a problem, hence it is ameliorate to use the cork mounting organization above (as the slice of cork in the centre helps to proceed the pcb flat). Magnets can be used in supercede of the cork, this makes the bed removable. However, I (mooneyj) accept only tried this on a darwin blazon printer (where the build platform simply moves in z). During fast press, the darwin vibrates and it seems the heatbed magnets slide over each other slightly. The acceleration of the y axis on a mendel may crusade the magnets to slide likewise. Mayhap a hybrid of magnet and commodities mounting would work well?.

The current standard (equally of January 2015), nonetheless, is to only place a square (200mm x 200mm) piece of glass on elevation of the heatbed, and affix it on the four sides with bulldog clips. The clips will not melt under pressure, and sufficiently hold the drinking glass to the bed. This makes removal easier for cleaning as well.


PCB heatbed mounted on P3Steel (Prusa i3 variant) with glass and bulldog clips.

Sides

The PCB heatbed has two sides, ane with the copper traces (bottom side) and i without (tiptop). On older versions of the PCB heatbed but the side without traces carried a silkscreen. Currently (every bit of January 2015) PCB heatbeds are silkscreened on both sides.

Previously, printing on the meridian side was considered to be safer as the copper traces could be damaged if the print head would collide with the heatbed surface (if for example the Z-min endstop malfunctioned). Patently if a piece of drinking glass is used as the print surface, information technology protects the PCB copper traces. However, brand sure your heatbed mounting springs are not too strong to prevent damage to the drinking glass in instance of an accidental standoff.

Note that the LED, resistor and wire connections are also liable to accidentally collide with the print head.

Over again,
the current standard (equally of January 2015)
when the PCB heatbed is used with a piece of glass equally the build surface
is to mount the PCB heatbed with the traces upwards. This improves rut transfer to the glass and the PCB heats up faster.


PCB HEATBED.jpg

Connection

Optional LEDs

The LEDs are optional, merely if you lot cull to employ the LEDs you MUST install the resistor.

Parts’

2 10 Surface Mount LEDs

one ten 1K ohm Surface Mount Resistor

Mount the LEDs in dissimilar directions (polarity) and then that one of the LEDs will light upward regardless of the board’south polarity. You tin can use a single LED if you lot are certain of the polarity.


PCB HEATBED DIAGRAM r.jpg

Electronics

RAMPS

Meet
RAMPS1.4,
RAMPS1.iii, or
RAMPS1.ii
depending on your version.

Sanguinolou
The MK2 PCB heatbed heats up to 110C when powered through the heated bed connection on Sanguinolou. Your ability supply should exist 300W and you lot should ensure that the wires from your ability supply to the Sanguinolou are capable of handling the total draw of 20A+. Using a 300W ATX power supply with the 4wire ATX dual 12V connector is working well for me.

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N.B. It is recommended that you use a heatsink on your heated bed mosfet, it volition go hot!

N.B. It is recommended that you measure the resistance of your board. I (evilB) didn’t and blew up my Ramps one.2 MOSFET considering of a too high electric current. My measured resistance was 0.eight Ohm.

Utilize A Relay

Heatbeds are i of the most ability hungy parts of a 3d printer, and this makes them one of the most unsafe. Historically in that location have been problems with heatbeds drawing more ability than some printer boards (E.g RAMPS) can handle due to the types of connectors used and other issues that meant they are not capable of handling high amperages.

Where possible you should brand use of a relay switch, and then that your hotbed takes ability directly from your power supply, with a 12v relay used to connect it to your electronics board. This results in a much lower risk of overloading your board, which has the potential to cause fire.

In that location are numerous sources for adding a relay, yet
this image provides a full general overview of how it works.

Troubleshooting (presumes 12v beds)

The heatbed is often the source of diverse issues in RepRap 3D printers. The following is a list of possible issues and how to correctly diagnose their cause and possible solutions:


T1) As soon as the PCB heatbed is turned on, my ability supply switches off.

D1)
Check that your power supply tin effectively supply 12V @ 15A or more. If yous are using an old PC ability supply, it may not be able to provide the required current, or it could demand a balancing resistor.
S1)
Use a better power supply. See
Choosing a Power Supply for your RepRap.


T2) My PCB heatbed never reaches the required temperature, or takes besides long to attain the required temperature.

This is probably the almost common trouble with heatbeds that RepRap builders accept to deal with. It can have various causes:

D2a)
Turn off your printer completely, and measure the resistance of your heatbed using a multimeter: it should non be higher than 1.2 Ohm. If information technology is higher than 1.2 Ohm, your heatbed will not get enough electric current and will not misemploy enough heat to reach the required temperatures.
S2a)
Return the heatbed to whomever sold it to you and make sure to get one with a proper resistance!
D2b)
If you have measured the resistance of your PCB heatbed and it is lower than 1.2 Ohm, you need to check the voltage beyond the heatbed terminals when it is heating up. If the voltage is significantly below, say, 11.7V, then again your heatbed will not become enough current and will non misemploy plenty oestrus to reach the required temperatures.
S2b)
Make sure you are using electrical cable with a proper gauge (14 approximate recommended) to connect the heatbed to the controller lath. And again, make sure your power supply provides the proper voltage under load conditions. Change components as required.
D2c)
Make sure you have the PCB traces on the upper side of your heatbed!
S2c)
Flip the PCB heatbed if required.


T3) I accept checked the temperature on the PCB heatbed and it does not provide uniform heating..

D3)
This is actually quite common and not a very serious problem every bit long every bit the variation in temperature is below +/- 3C between center and periphery. The corners volition always be a little cooler, besides.
S3)
Cheque the various PCB insulation methods listed below. They will minimize heat losses from the underside of the PCB.


The following video shows a PCB heatbed MK2 being heated to threescore degrees as seen by an infrared photographic camera:

Thermal insulation

It’s a good idea to insulate the underside of the heatbed in lodge to get a faster heat up fourth dimension and a overall better thermal functioning. For college temperatures, an insulation might even exist required.



Cork plate cut to fit nether a PCB heated bed.

Solutions plant to piece of work are:

  • Cork plate.
  • Cotton fiber batting.
  • Wool felt canvass.
  • Rescue sheet, run across e.g.
    Robert’due south Heated Bed
    ie the silver or gold rescue coating used by hikers.
  • Glass fibre soldering/plumbers/welding mat
  • Silicon or teflon cooking canvas

FORKS (not done past Prusa)

MK2, MK2a

Information technology’s not successor of MK1 even with information technology’s proper noun. It’southward concurrent design. – Josef Prusa

MK2a Heatbed with modest changes by Tony from
Think3dPrint3d

Nigh the MK2a

I liked Josef’south original pattern but wanted to be able to utilize through hole components, have the thermistor poke through the center and for it to look adept on the ‘back’ with the silkscreen that Josef designed on that side as well.

The MK2a has a few further changes:

  • A mounting hole in the heart of one border to allow for easier bed levelling, thanks to
    Nophead
    for this suggestion.
  • Larger LED and Resistor pads to allow for 1206 size surface mount components.
  • Much larger area to solder the current carrying wire, easily connect ribbon cable (such as with the Mendel90 heatbed connection). Likewise the through holes increased in size.
  • The redundant pads on the non-heating element side of the lath removed to preclude confusion. These are not electrically continued if the board is not plated (plated boards are bad for the reasons outlined by Josef Prusa above).

Further update of the MK2a

(by Tony from
Think3dPrint3d)

In order to brand ribbon cable easier to use we have fabricated the following changes:

Holes in the extended solder pads


MK2a-header holes.jpg

This allows for IDC uniform pin headers to be used


MK2a-headers.jpg

This in plow makes plugging in a heated bed wiring loom very easy


MK2a-headers connectors.jpg

Where to get information technology

The MK2 .brd file is available here:
File:PCB heatedbed Mk2.brd[[4]]

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The MK2a .brd file is available here
File:PCB heatedbed Mk2a.brd

Manufactured MK2 PCBs can exist institute here:

MK2B From RobotDigg (CN)

MK2B From Like shooting fish in a barrel RepRap (USA)

MK2A, MK2B, MK3 – TaoTac.com VN

MK2B Dual power 12/24V US

Alfa-Tech3D MK2B (DK, Worldwide)

Think3dPrint3d (Great britain, Worldwide)

http://world wide web.3distributed.com/products/mk2-heated-bed-one

Charlie’s 3D Technologies

www.gadgets3d.com

www.RepRap.me

rp3d.com

Botech Circuits MK2a

eBay MK2a

eMakerShop MK2a

MK2a, MK2b (214x214mm, 314x214mm and 326x326mm) from ThingiBOX

Reprapdiscount MK2 and MK2a eBay

Paoparts (fr) MK2a

Cubic Impress (Germany)

Uw3Dprinter.nl MK2 (NL,Be,DE,FR)

CREATEC 3D (ES, Worldwide)

i3Dlc MK2B (SPAIN)

MK2B (RU)

RepRapWorld

RepRap Portugal
MK2B Red and Blackness

opensourcehardware.it (MK2B, MK3-ALU, MK3 300×200)

world wide web.hta3d.com (MK2A 300×200, MK2B, MK3-ALU, Borosilicate tempered drinking glass and more!!)

orballoprinting.com MK3 MK2B wolrdwide shipping

Printing

MK2

Although you can impress directly to the bed covered in polyimide tape, no PCB is perfectly apartment. It is recommended that you follow the directions in mounting, beneath, for meliorate results.

Mounting

MK2

The MK2 board tin exist mounted either side up and is designed to be mounted as Josef describes:

http://josefprusa.cz/pcb-heatbed-concluding-mounting-and-wiring-solutio

The holes in the 4 corners to attach the heated bed MK2 to the top print plate are not suitable for M3 bolts though! Use M2.v instead.

The glass protects the tracks from a head crash and is easily swapped out.

The board dimensions are identical to the MK1 design.

Insulation between the board and the thick plate should better oestrus-up times and reduce free energy consumption. An case is here:

http://reprap.org/wiki/Mendel_heated_bed#Thermal_Insulation

Caution, I have not tried this with the temperatures that the PCB bed can attain!

MK2a

The MK2a has a central mounting hole on the front end side to let for three point mounting. This is much easier for bed leveling in comparing to 4 betoken mounting. Start level the side with two holes and ready in place, and so level the side with one pigsty. A glass plate is highly recommended to provide a truly flat surface and rigidity.


Mk2a Central Mount Point.jpg

Sides

MK2

The PCB still has a side with the traces on and a side without but now the silkscreen is on both the summit and bottom, this makes it expect adept even when ‘upside downwardly’ under a layer of glass. The LED, resistor and power wires can be mounted on either side of the board, with either surface mountain or through hole components. If y’all are using through hole be careful when soldering non to interfere with the glass and introduce a gap between the glass and the PCB. If the MK2 board is fabricated properly without copper plating then be certain to only solder the LED and resistor to the same side and the tracks. This problem is solved in the MK2a by removing the pads on the non connected side.

MK2

PCB Heatbed MK2 front small.jpg


MK2a

Mk2a.jpg


MK2b Dual Power

RRD-Mk2b-dual-power.jpg


RRD-Mk2b-dual-power blk.jpg

There is a central hole in the board and information technology is sized and then a small-scale thermistor (for instance the EPCOS one:
http://united kingdom.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?CMP=i-ddd7-00001003&sku=3878697
) will fit though it allowing contact straight with the glass.
todo: test efficacy of using heat sink compound to meliorate thermally couple the thermistor to the glass


PCB Heatbed MK2 therm hole.jpg

Connection

Polarity doesn’t affect the PCB, however the LEDs accept a polarity.

MK2

There are pads and un-plated through holes for connecting the power wires. Ensure that the wire you utilize is thick enough for 10A, and solder it to the pads on the track side of the PCB. It is a adept idea to remember well-nigh strain relief and then your moving build platform does not flex the joint, this can atomic number 82 to failure of the joint over time. I recommend routing the wire from the heated bed to strain relief on the thick canvass before routing it to your controller/power supply.
todo: get pictures of strain relief

MK2a

The pads to solder onto have been greatly increased as shown in the movie below. The film shows the wires prepared for soldering routed through the holes for extra security. This does non remove the need to use proper strain relief.


Mk2a Through Hole.jpg

MK2b Dual Power

As y’all can meet in the pictures beneath depending on the voltage you lot want to utilize y’all have to use dissimilar solder pads, but it’due south written on the PCB which pads take to be used for which voltage.


RRD-Mk2b-dual-power-table.jpg


RRD-Mk2b-dual-power-connector red blk.jpg

MK2i
The MK2i is connected just similar the MK2a heatbed.

Optional LEDs

MK2

The LEDs are optional, but if you choose to employ the LEDs yous MUST install the resistor. Solder the components to the pads on the track side of the PCB. With the MK2, conventional wired parts can be substituted for the surface mount parts. If your MK2 lath is made properly without copper plating then be sure to only solder the LED and resistor to the same side and the tracks. This problem is solved in the MK2a by removing the pads on the non connected side.


Parts’

2 ten surface mount (0805 size on the MK1 and MK2, 1206 size on the MK2a for easier soldering) or conventional through-hole LEDs. Install with reverse polarity so one or the other will light upwardly regardless of the polarity of the power supply to the board.

1 x 1K ohm surface mount or through-hole resistor

MK2b Dual Power Technical Details

Yous can discover the open up source files hither:
http://forum.reprapdiscount.com/forums/oss/

  • Dimensions 214mmx 214mm
  • Laminate FR4 i.six+-0.15mm
  • 2 layer, 35μm copper
  • Red Soldermask – both sides
  • White Silkscreen – both sides
  • Power Input: 12V or 24v
  • copper plated holes
  • resistance between ane.0-1.two ohm (12V) or three-iii.4 ohm (24V) (Sainsmart lath came in at 1.viii ohm @ 12V/3.6 ohm @ 24V)

MK2i


IMG 8284 smnocopy.png


IMG 8271 smnocopy.png

The MK2i is a hybrid of MK2a and MK3 designs. Information technology supports 4-point and iii-point mounting. There is a central hole in the PCB for a through hole thermistor such every bit EPCOS. There are also pads on acme and bottom for an SMD or through-hole thermistor. The pads are on the top/bottom (in the center of the PCB, next to the hole) but the thermistor trace is on the height copper and routes again to the bottom for easier wiring, labelled “NTC”. This design is versatile and much less record is needed for strain relief on the thermistor wires.

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The MK2i besides sports an internationalized stencil on superlative and lesser. The stencil has new international symbols for “hot” and “hot – do not touch”, as well as translations in English language, Spanish, French, and German language. The original CAD file also had translations in Chinese, Russian, Arabic, and Japanese – only it fails to export these character sets then they aren’t in the final version.

The code is at
https://github.com/Terawatt-Industries/mk2i
and comes with a LBR library file. You lot should be able to have PCBs fabricated from the MK2i Gerbers. It’s probably feasible to brand this by hand – as much as an MK2a PCB – except in this case you must accept lesser and top layers if you desire the thermistor wiring characteristic.

MK2 A4

This is

my build
. I always wanted a big bed, in order to be able to plot (yes, really plot, with creative purpouses) at least DIN A4 in size. So I congenital my prusa mendel big enough to be able to host such a HBP PCB. I’g no adept with any PCB editor, so I made my files in a CAD program, and exported the effect file into a dxf file. The file has several layers the names of which should brand the data self understandable. Anyway I’ll tell: the layers with number names represent the routing of the traces the width of which is the layer’s name in mm. The blueprint was basically copied from MK2a. The engineering science was made with an evolutive algorithm developed by

Damrod

in
grasshopper. The manufacturing was a bit faulty, but it works flawlessly.

  • Dimensions 215mmx 315mm
  • ane layer 35μm copper
  • resistance betwixt 1.0 and 1.ii ohm


Big Heatbed.JPG

source gerber
source dxf

PCB Heatbed 200X300mm


200X300.jpg


200X300-TOP.jpg

The PCB Heatbed 200X300mm has a 100mm bigger built surface area then the regular MK2 heatbed and the overall outline is 214X314mm.

Information technology has dual power manner optimized for 12 or 24V just you lot tin can besides apply everything in betwixt (16V, 19V what have y’all) (Your printer controller will regulate the power to the heatbed in social club to get your preset temperature.)

The core is regular ane.6mm FR4 PCB and the print surface is the same as regular heatbeds but with a metric ruler grid.

The connections to the heatbed is the same as the connections on the MK3 Alu. heatbed belov.

The PCB Heatbed 200X300mm is now available in the
RepRap.me
webshop.

  • Dimensions 214mm x 314mm
  • 1 layer 35μm (1oz base) copper
  • Resistance between 1 and i.3 ohm for the 12V
  • Resistance between iv.5 and 5 ohm for the 24V
  • 110 degrees Celsius possible for both 12V and 24V
  • Running 24V on the 12V terminals will heatup the heatbed to 100 caste in only 2 minutes
  • 180 degree Celsius max. temperature

MK3 ALU-Heatbed Dual Ability

The
Alu-Heatbed MK3
have features similar to MK2 and you tin can as well operate this board with 12V or 24V.

– Heatbed with 3.2mm Aluminum Core. Print straight on the heatbed, no need for glass plate. It’s a much lighter solution than PCB heatbed + drinking glass, which makes information technology better for faster prints.
– Dual power supply. Operate at 12V or 24V. You lot can utilise thinner wires when operating at 24V.
– A central mounting hole on the front end side to allow for 3 bespeak mounting. This is much easier for bed leveling in comparison to 4 point mounting. First level the side with two holes and ready in identify, then level the side with one hole.
– Large solder pads for multiple wires (ribbon cablevision) or a SMD pinhead connector can be mounted.
– Pads for SMD thermistor 1206

  • Dimensions 214mm x 214mm
  • one layer 35μm (1oz base) copper
  • Resistance between 1.iv and 1.6 ohm for the 12V
  • Resistance between 5.0 and 5.four ohm for the 24V
  • 100 degree Celsius possible for both 12V and 24V
  • With 15V on the 12V terminals will maintain approx. 115 degree Celsius without regulation
  • Running 24V on the 12V terminals will heatup the heatbed to 100 degree in just 2 minutes (Your printer controller will regulate the ability to the heatbed in gild to get your preset temperature.)
  • 180 caste Celsius max. temperature


Alu heatbed.JPG


Lesser side (Exercise non print directly on this side)


Alu TOP .jpg


Height side (Press side)


Alu 12V small.jpg


Alu 24V small.jpg

When connecting the heatbed in the 12V setting it is important that you connect solder pad 2 and 3 directly on the heatbed.

Recommended NTC: EPCOS – B57621C104J62 – THERMISTOR, 100K “or whatever
thermistor
you unremarkably use.”

Where to become it

Alfa-Tech3D

www.RepRap.me

www.cubic-impress.de

(Cubic-Impress currently only offers the version of the bed thats needs a wired thermistor. The SMD pads are solely for SMD LEDs and their resistor.)
TaoTac.com

MK3 (214x214mm and 314x214mm) from ThingiBOX

RobotDigg

Aus3D

Free shipping $thirteen

MK2A

MK3

RepRap.pt Heated Beds

MK2a layout in SVG-format

There’s an SVG-version (Inkscape) of the MK2a-layout.

For the toner transfer method and people that but have a printer for letter/DIN A4 at that place’s a version with two separated parts. Considering the parts only have few electrical contacts betwixt them, they easily can be ironed adjacent to each other, fixing the needed bridges with etch resistant pigment before etching.

(Y’all may follow the complete process here:
Etched_heatbed_construction)


3d Printer Pcb Heat Bed Mk3 Heatbed 12v

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