3d Printer Change Filament Creality Ender 3

3d Printer Change Filament Creality Ender 3

This is merely an assistance-memoire regarding how to change filament on a Creality Ender 3 3D printer.

Changing/reloading the filament is pretty straightforward. But I know from personal feel that there are a couple of small snags/irritants that can occur due to “economies” in the pattern of the Ender 3. Though it has to be said that for the money the Ender 3 is really practiced value. The latest version (far better than mine!) is
here on Amazon.

Removing Existing filament.

Assuming the filament has non snapped in the Bowden tube so removing it is piece of cake. Plough on the Ender three go to “Prepare” on the display then curlicue down to either pre-heat PLA or pre-heat ABS. Select the one that is appropriate. (see more later in the post if you are using something a little more than exotic like TPU). Then select “Preheat PLA/ABS Stop” There is no demand to heat the bed up.

The pre-heat PLA on my motorcar raised the impress head temperature to 190 degrees centigrade whereas the pre-rut ABS raises it to 240 degrees centigrade.

3d Printer Change Filament Creality Ender 3
Compression the feed head assembley spring clip to withdraw the filament

When the print head reaches temperature the filament can just be pulled out. Yous need to compression the spring clip on the entry feed to the Bowden tube and so to release the pressure on the filament. Then with the other hand pull out the filament.

That’s it! This volition obviously exit a small corporeality of filament in the print head. If you are going to use the same blazon of filament then imho the best matter to do is feed it in now. Use it to “push out” the last of the old batch. Which brings u.s.a. to the beginning of my irritants with the Ender 3.


Feeding in new filament.

In an ideal earth all you have to do is remove the old roll of filament from the hanger, put the new roll on information technology then push the filament in through the nozzle entry, through the jump clip, down the Bowden tube and into the print head.

But for me that rarely happens. The spring prune on the entry to the Bowden tube misaligns the filament and I (personally) take a devil of a task getting the damn thing into the Bowden tube. Information technology is one of those jobs that needs three hands.

  • One to operate the leap clip
  • Ane to push the filament through
  • One (with a bract/spatula or any) to line the filament up with the entry to the Bowden tube so it goes in.
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Sometimes I observe that even when you lot get this far the filament then fouls on the entry to the Bowden tube!

My piece of work circular for not having three easily goes something like this.

I remove the Bowden tube from the feeder motor assembly. I do this by pushing the white ring in and then merely pull it out.

Then from the reverse side I feed in a small length (say 6 inches long) of filament and into the grip of the spring prune. Then I feed the new filament in. I try and snag it confronting the short piece and then the short piece “leads” the new filament in through the entry hole to the Bowden tube.

I suppose you could endeavor hitting it with a soldering iron to join the ii together or whatever, but I detect that ordinarily with a couple of attempts the curt length successfully leads the new filament into the Bowden tube aperture.

When it’s through, I feed it into the Bowden tube and re-insert the Bowden tube into the feeder motor assembly. Then it is simply a matter of holding open the spring clip pushing the filament down the Bowden tube into the print head. Go along pushing gently and the new filament will melt and expel the old. Y’all can lookout the color modify as it comes out. At that place will only be a few inches of waste.

How to Change the filament blazon on Ender 3

What if you want to change filament on an Ender 3 from 1 type to another. Say you wanted to get from using PLA to ABS or vice sa versa. Then there’s two ways to practice it. (I’ve done both, simply I at present adopt the first selection which is to change the nozzle).

The first is to change the extruder nozzle for a new 1. Or of grade, you can modify it to one that has previously been used with the new blazon of filament you are loading. (See this post on how to change nozzle) Nozzles are cheap (see Amazon here) so this really is not going to break the bank if you need to fit a new nozzle when you modify material.

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But alternatively yous tin also only feed in the new filament and displace the former. The but caveat with this is that apparently the filament in the print head has to be molten plenty to get pushed out past the new stuff coming in.

If the original filament was ABS (molten from around 220 degC upwards) and yous are pushing in PLA, heating the bed to 190 degC (That’south the Ender three setting for pre-heating the print caput for PLA) is probably non going to get the remaining ABS up to a loftier enough temperature to allow the PLA to push information technology out.

But luckily in that location is a sweetness spot where both ABS and PLA are molten. It’s effectually 220 degC.

So instead of using the “Prepare”→Preheat facility, go to “Control”→Temperature→nozzle. Wind the print head temperature upwardly to around 220 degC.

When it get upwardly to around in that location effort gently pushing the PLA in and see if the ABS comes out. If it doesn’t so you lot tin up the temperature a lilliputian and try once again. Or of grade, you can always only alter the print head. Going the other way (i.due east adding new ABS to a print caput previously used with PLA) is less fraught as the PLA will be well molten at ABS pre-rut temperature (240 degC). Merely utilise the same method.

Other filament types generally accept temperature ranges very like to PLA then they are less prone to difficulty. Assuming you are feeding them into replace PLA or vice sa versa.

Filament Types and Temperatures.

Here’s a listing of crude working temperatures for a range of filament materials I’ve picked upwards off diverse places on the internet. Hopefully they are correct but caveat emptor!

3D printing Filament Operating Temperatures

  • PLA 200 – 230 degrees Centrigrade
  • ABS 230 – 270 degrees Centrigrade
  • TPU 205 – 300 degrees Centrigrade
  • PETG 220 – 250 degrees Centrigrade
  • PLA+ 210 – 235 degrees Centrigrade

These filament types all have different niches. Simply in many cases they also overlap for full general use. I feel it is worth having a selection rather than but staying with PLA.
Here’south the SunLU page on Amazon
that gives a brief clarification of each filament type. Another
Amazon supplier with a good range of both types and colors is Duramic 3D
on this link.

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Filaments generally tend to start going “runny” almost 10 degrees below their minimum working temperature. So if you are pushing i out with another choose a temperature sugariness spot that suits both.

But what if the Filament snapped in Bowden Tube?

So how exercise you change the filament on an Ender iii when the filament has somehow broken in the filament tube? So that after pulling information technology out y’all get out a few inches in the tube at the bottom which blocks it?

You have to detach the Bowden tube at the extruder. Button the white band in and agree it in. Then withdraw the Bowden tube with the other paw. Withdraw the Bowden tube from over the filament. So when the filament is exposed but pull it out of the hot impress head.

There is a (Big) warning fastened to doing this. Make Admittedly SURE that when you refit the Bowden tube that it goes right back in as far as information technology tin can go. If you get out any infinite between the Bowden tube and the rear face of the extruder nozzle you seriously risk getting a blockage when you are half way through your next print. Whatsoever chip of debris in the print head <may> prevent the Bowden tube fully inbound the bedchamber and butting upwardly to the nozzle.

Personally I’d take the nozzle out and push the Bowden tube correct through. This volition flush any such debris out (see this postal service for how and why). Only I suppose as long every bit you are certain that the Bowden tube really has gone all the way back in and so you can fly it. If your Bowden tube gets frayed/damaged it is hands and cheaply replaced
1 example is this link on Amazon
Two meters for $7.99 !! That should keep you going for nearly twenty years!

Anyway, writing up how to change the filament on an Ender 3 has turned out to be a long post. Much longer than I intended frist! But I promise it helps.

3d Printer Change Filament Creality Ender 3

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